Nick Knight’s Blue Velvet is an essential document of his early career, capturing the breadth of his photographic innovation through a carefully curated selection of work. Published in 1994, the book offers a chronological survey of Knight’s defining projects, from his raw depictions of London’s skinhead subculture to the polished, otherworldly fashion imagery that would establish him as one of the most influential photographers of his generation.
The book’s physical design is as striking as the work within—wrapped in deep blue velvet, the cover is a tactile extension of Knight’s fascination with texture, light, and materiality. Inside, the pages unfold under the meticulous art direction of Marc Ascoli and Peter Saville, whose refined approach enhances Knight’s exploration of the surreal and the sculptural within fashion photography.
Accompanied by text from Satoko Nakahara, Blue Velvet is not merely a visual archive but also a reflection on Knight’s artistic process. Through interviews and personal accounts, Nakahara provides insight into the photographer’s approach, emphasizing his ability to dissolve traditional boundaries—between masculinity and femininity, between documentary and fantasy, between fashion and fine art.
The book features an extensive range of Knight’s work, including collaborations with Yohji Yamamoto, Jil Sander, and Martine Sitbon, alongside striking portraits of industry icons like Linda Evangelista and Naomi Campbell. Across editorial spreads for i-D and Arena, his use of space, contrast, and color manipulation showcases his restless experimentation, pushing photography beyond its conventional limits.