In Paris, within the Marais district, lies Lafayette Anticipations, a contemporary art foundation housed in a unique building designed by Rem Koolhaas. This space, known for its avant-garde exhibitions and multidisciplinary approach, has hosted remarkable events such as “Beyond” (February 15 - May 7, 2023). This group exhibition transformed Lafayette Anticipations into a journey through the relationships we build with the living, celebrating the happy rebirth of a wounded world and featuring artists like Alicia Adamerovich, Michèle Lamy, and Wilfredo Lam. It was also the stage for an extraordinary event: the first solo exhibition of the elusive and revolutionary designer, Martin Margiela.
In 1988, Martin Margiela, along with his business partner Jenny Meirens, founded the fashion house Maison Martin Margiela. His debut collection in 1989 marked a stark departure from the fashion norms of the time. Held in a derelict playground on the outskirts of Paris, the show featured models with intentionally stumbling walks and garments with ripped sleeves and frayed hems. Returning to the birthplace of his first show, this exhibition, like his debut, took an unconventional approach that shocked the industry due to Margiela’s return.
Margiela officially left his eponymous label, Maison Martin Margiela, in December 20091. His departure had been an open secret since the previous year. Margiela cited the increasing pressure and demands of the fashion industry, as well as the overwhelming influence of social media, as reasons for his decision. He felt that the constant flow of information and the lack of surprise in the industry were detrimental to his creative process.
After leaving his brand, Margiela remained largely out of the public eye, continuing to avoid interviews and public appearances.
From October 20, 2021, to January 2, 2022, visitors were invited to step into Margiela’s world, a place where the boundaries between fashion and art blur into oblivion. The exhibition was not just a display of works but an immersive experience that transformed every corner of Lafayette Anticipations. Margiela, known for his radical approach to fashion, brought the same spirit of innovation and disruption to his art.
In typical Margiela fashion, the exhibition began unconventionally. Visitors entered through the emergency exit, immediately signaling that this journey would be anything but ordinary. Inside, they found themselves in a labyrinthine space where installations, sculptures, collages, paintings, and films appeared and disappeared from various vantage points. This setup mirrored Margiela’s career-long obsession with transformation and the ephemeral nature of existence.
Margiela’s works on display were a testament to his belief that life is in constant mutation. Themes of disappearance and incompletion were omnipresent. Anatomies inspired by academic traditions, hair and skin rendered in almost abstract forms, and signs of the passing of time were all explored through his art. Margiela’s fascination with the vulnerable, the fragile, and the fleeting was evident in every piece, challenging visitors to find beauty in the overlooked and the transient.
Margiela’s career has always been marked by his willingness to push boundaries. From his early days as Jean-Paul Gaultier’s assistant to founding Maison Martin Margiela in 1988, he consistently challenged the conventions of fashion. His use of recycled materials, unconventional show locations, and conceptual designs set him apart as a true innovator. This exhibition at Lafayette Anticipations was a continuation of that legacy, showcasing his evolution from fashion designer to visual artist.
The exhibition was designed as a total artwork, engaging multiple senses and perspectives. Margiela’s references ranged from Caravaggio paintings to everyday objects like hair dye boxes, creating a rich tapestry of influences that reflected his unique vision. This eclectic mix underscored his ability to transform the banal into something extraordinary, inviting visitors to see the world through his eyes.
The Martin Margiela exhibition at Lafayette Anticipations was more than just a display of art; it was an exploration of existence, transformation, and the beauty of the ephemeral. By turning habits upside-down and refocusing perspectives, Margiela invited visitors to embark on a journey of discovery and wonderment. His works, imbued with a sense of vulnerability and fragility, left a lasting impression, reminding us that in the world of Martin Margiela, nothing is ever truly complete, and everything is in a state of constant change.
Discover the full exhibition book scan in the FORM Archive here.
