Cristobal Balenciaga was born in 1895 in Getaria, a small fishing village located in the Basque region of Spain. His fashion legacy began here, as he spent much of his time observing his mother's work as a seamstress. Through watching her and working alongside tailors as an apprentice, Balenciaga developed design skills that were unprecedented for his age. By the age of twelve, Balenciaga was already showcasing his innovative design methods and elevated tailoring abilities. These attributes earned him recognition from some of the wealthiest individuals in his town, many of whom were his mother's clients, granting him access to resources, money, and opportunities. This recognition proved pivotal, allowing him to open his first fashion salon in 1917, named Eisa, an homage to his mother's maiden name and her influence on his designs. He later expanded this salon, opening branches in Madrid, Barcelona, and the fashionable seaside resort of San Sebastián.
As Balenciaga operated his boutiques in Spain, he continued to gain attention and success, admired by royalty and fashionable members of the aristocracy. However, the Spanish Civil War began in 1937, forcing the closure of all his boutiques and creating a major obstacle for Balenciaga to continue showcasing his work. During this challenging time for the brand's legacy, significant strides were made, and Balenciaga relocated to Paris, France, to open his first couture house.
Throughout the years of operating his boutiques, cultivating his skills, and honing his craft, Balenciaga also struggled with his sexuality as a gay man living in a time when being queer was not widely accepted. This part of Balenciaga’s identity was kept secret from most people to ensure his safety and avoid backlash, allowing him to reach his full potential as a fashion designer. Balenciaga is known to have had one true love, Vladzio d’Attainville, a notable and wealthy hatmaker who helped finance Balenciaga's move to Paris. Their partnership was not only a chance at love for both of them but also an opportunity for Balenciaga to continue his fashion legacy with the support of d’Attainville.
In 1937, Balenciaga debuted his first couture collection in Paris, quickly joining the ranks of Schiaparelli and Christian Dior as one of the most expensive and exclusive couturiers Paris had ever seen. Balenciaga's extensive knowledge of construction allowed him to streamline his design process and showcase some of the most innovative silhouettes, fabric manipulations, and radical shapes, catching the attention of the world. His continuous display of high-caliber work earned him a prominent name in the fashion community, being recognized as the "high priest of design" and, by many other designers, "the master of us all." Styles revolutionized by Balenciaga became instantly recognizable, cementing the brand's place in history and attracting a loyal clientele through his dedication to craftsmanship and innovation. Iconic designs like the square coat and balloon-style jackets in his early collections reflected Balenciaga's unique identity and aesthetic, offering a glimpse into Balenciaga’s life—happily partnered and with the creative freedom to innovate.
In 1948, Balenciaga's lover and partner, Vladzio d’Attainville, suddenly died from a stomach ulcer. This loss marked the end of Balenciaga's first and only love and had a pivotal impact on his design direction in fashion. Though the loss was deeply personal and all-encompassing for Balenciaga, it was not widely shared, as their queer relationship was neither accepted nor legal at the time. Balenciaga grieved in private, becoming reclusive and withdrawn, and began to express his mourning through his designs.
In the same year, 1948, Balenciaga unveiled his latest collection, featuring garments of various shapes and silhouettes, but with one unifying element: the color black. The symbolism of this choice was clear, reflecting the designer's inner emotions without a single word, as his personal life faced new challenges and loss. This marked the beginning of a new era in Balenciaga's design process, where fashion became not only a medium for creating beautiful collections but also a form of personal expression and communication from designer to customer. The impact of Balenciaga's relationship with his partner is evident throughout his design legacy, though it was not widely known due to the cultural norms of the time.
Through the 1950s and 1960s, Balenciaga would continue to unveil new collections and innovative designs, always with a focus on fabric, structure, volume, innovation, abstraction, and comfort, and through fashion, communicating the impact of his relationships and loves throughout his life. The influence of his mother's legacy as a seamstress would live on in each of Balenciaga's designs as he continued to find new ways to adorn and dress women by manipulating fabric and drafting patterns—skills he had acquired in his early days of design. The legacy of his late lover would also continue to resonate through every design showcased. Notable styles, such as his signature silhouette, he continued to perfect, using it to create flowers and other organic shapes.
The namesake fashion house presented its last collection under the direction of Cristóbal in 1968. The final gown in the collection was a wedding gown, as many couture collections traditionally end with. However, Balenciaga's innovative approach to bridal wear further deepens our understanding of his deep appreciation for love and the relationships in his life. It has been said that women did not have to be perfect or even beautiful to wear his clothing. His clothes made them beautiful, and their long-lasting effect allows us to fill in the gaps in his life and story. Although Balenciaga gave only one press interview throughout his entire career, he created a new form of communication through fashion, enabling him to mourn, learn, love, and innovate without saying a word. Balenciaga's work as a designer lives on with each design the House continues to produce. His innovative yet personal approach to fashion opened the door for some of the most iconic looks in history. Balenciaga found fulfillment through fashion, even as other facets of his life were limited by time, culture, loss, and constraints on fundamental freedoms. Despite it all, fashion and art prevailed, creating the House of Balenciaga.
