Details
The Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 1999 collection was presented on October 15, 1998, at 8:00 p.m. at the Hôtel de Luzy, located at 6, Rue Férou, in Paris’ 6th Arrondissement. The show took place in the now-abandoned mansion, a historic building with a storied past. The Hôtel de Luzy, originally designed in the late seventeenth century, had once been the residence of São Schlumberger, a famous collector known for her eclectic taste. The interior, a provocative blend of classic and modern styles, included features such as a library with leather curtains and a basement nightclub with a glass dance floor. For the show, only two of the mansion’s five floors were used, with all curtains drawn and shutters closed, allowing only the faint glow of the venue's own lamps to illuminate the space. The atmosphere was heightened by the retransmission of sounds from the upper floors, creating an immersive, layered experience.
The collection itself was a retrospective, celebrating 10 years of Martin Margiela’s design. It revisited key ideas from previous collections, drawing from the Fall/Winter 1994-95 through Fall/Winter 1998-99 seasons. Garments were presented as unfinished, raw mock-ups. As an opening gesture, two men in white lab coats, carrying large printed signs, walked out to display garments from the No. 6 line. The models that followed walked through the darkened space, illuminated by flashlights, and perfumed with patchouli essence. The finale featured the first men's collection, No. 10, introduced alongside the models' unorthodox, alternative physiques. The music of Nirvana’s "Scentless Apprentice" underscored the presentation’s intensity.
Technical Specifications
The January 1999 issue of Dazed & Confused magazine featured a "Teenage Takeover" theme, where creative control was handed over to British teenagers. Responding to the question, "What does it mean to you to be young and British today?", the magazine received over 400 individual article pitches in just ten days. From these, 30 unique and insightful stories were selected, written entirely by teenagers with guidance from the magazine's editors. These stories included interviews with anti-violence campaigners, investigations into youth subcultures, and personal narratives such as a coming-out story presented within a birthday card.
Alongside these powerful stories, the issue featured standout fashion editorials, including a 34-page portfolio by Hedi Slimane titled Preservation Vamp, which explored the essence of British youth through photography. Styled by Nicola Formichetti, the editorial featured young models like 14-year-old Jessie and 17-year-old Louis, who appeared on the two covers of the issue. The issue also highlighted a raw fashion editorial by Terry Richardson, showcasing Maison Martin Margiela’s Spring/Summer 1999 collection.
Network
Terry Richardson, Sabina Schreder, Sveta Uzhinsky
Courtesy
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