For SS 2004, Carol Christian Poell to present his collection along the picturesque Naviglio Grande canal in Milan. Imagine the waterway—a historic artery of the city—fringed with centuries-old buildings, their facades reflecting in the gently rippling water. The models, clad in Poell’s enigmatic designs, floated down this unconventional catwalk. The canal’s banks provided an ethereal backdrop, evoking both the melancholic beauty of John Everett Millais’ “Ophelia” and the avant-garde spirit of the collection.
The collection itself was a study in contrasts. Poell’s signature materials—leather, distressed fabrics, and unconventional textiles—were meticulously crafted into garments that seemed to tell stories of their own. Leather jackets, more than mere outerwear, were sculptural pieces. Distressed leather, asymmetrical cuts, and unexpected closures challenged conventional notions of what a jacket should be. Trousers and skirts featured intricate lacing, raw edges, and unexpected slits, blurring the lines between masculine and feminine. The footwear, rugged yet refined, exuded post-apocalyptic elegance. Accessories like leather belts with intricate buckles, fingerless gloves, and scarves added layers of mystery. Each piece carried a hidden narrative.
Poell’s materials were as unconventional as his presentation. Leather, often distressed, played a central role. His dyeing processes were experimental, resulting in unique shades and textures. The garments bore the marks of time, as if they had weathered centuries. The color palette ranged from earthy browns to deep blacks, evoking a sense of mystery and decay.
