There’s a quiet power in objects that bear the weight of time. The kind of power that comes from hands working with materials that have existed long before we did, and will likely outlast us. Guidi, with its raw, sensual aesthetic, taps into that elemental energy. It’s not simply a footwear brand. It is a reflection of the deep, artisanal tradition of Tuscan leatherworking, rooted in craftsmanship that has weathered centuries.
In the heart of Pescia, Italy, the story of Guidi begins—not in a flash of inspiration or in the pursuit of trends, but through a centuries-old tannery. In 1896, the Conceria Guidi Rosellini was born, nestled in the hills where leather tanning was a way of life, not a business. The tannery worked with a simple philosophy—respect for material, patience, and the pursuit of perfection. It was here, in this centuries-old tradition, that Guidi Rosellini began to perfect the art of leather crafting, focusing on vegetable tanning methods that took time but yielded the finest results. This commitment to heritage would later set the stage for the creation of Guidi as we know it today.
The journey from heritage tannery to cult footwear label wasn’t immediate, but rather, a slow burn. Ruggero Guidi, a descendant of the original founders, began experimenting with leather in a new way, one that was more aligned with his personal passion for craftsmanship and art. A collector of vintage boots and workwear, Ruggero’s vision was to bring the art of leather-making to the forefront of fashion—but on his own terms. It wasn’t about following trends or joining the cycle of fast fashion. It was about reviving a tradition that valued handcraft, timeless design, and the soul of the material.
In 2004, this vision began to take shape. Ruggero, alongside designer Alessia Righi Amante, decided to take the next step: to create shoes—but not just any shoes. They envisioned something that was simultaneously raw and refined, a product that wasn’t about polish, but about character. The process was experimental—handmade, rough, and organic. The first Guidi shoes were pieces that defied expectation: heavy, tactile, and full of life. From the very start, Guidi shoes were designed to tell a story—each scar, each crease, was part of the journey.
At the heart of Guidi’s creations is its leather. The brand’s approach to leather is more than just a material choice; it’s a philosophy. Each hide is chosen not for its perfection, but for its character. The brand has built its reputation on using some of the most unique leathers available—horsehide, kangaroo, and reverse calf—and pushing them to new limits through meticulous, labor-intensive processes.
Guidi’s vegetable tanning method, passed down through generations, is at the core of what makes their leather so distinct. It’s a slow, almost meditative process. Leather is soaked and dyed with plant-derived tannins that imbue it with depth and texture, creating a raw, tactile quality that speaks to its origins. This isn’t the fast track to production—it’s a journey, one that embraces imperfection and celebrates the irregularities that make each hide unique.
Take horsehide, for example, a favorite of the Guidi atelier. It’s thick, with a smooth, almost burnished surface, yet it retains a natural stiffness that softens and molds with wear. This leather doesn’t just age; it transforms. Kangaroo leather, on the other hand, is light and supple, its grain finer than most leathers, which is why it’s often used for Guidi’s most luxurious pieces. The brand’s use of reverse leather—where the “flesh side” of the hide is exposed—is another hallmark. The reverse side offers a velvety texture, a softer, more tactile experience, embodying the rawness that Guidi champions.
It’s through these leathers that Guidi’s shoes tell their story: a narrative not of perfection, but of evolution. With every crease, every imperfection, each shoe becomes an extension of the wearer’s journey. As Guidi says, “Our shoes are not meant to stay new—they are meant to be worn, to become part of your life.”
But the leather alone doesn’t tell the full story. What elevates Guidi into a realm of its own is its craftsmanship. Each pair of boots is a work of art, hand-finished by skilled artisans who still use methods passed down through generations. There are no shortcuts here. Every stitch, every cut, every detail is deliberate and executed with precision.
Guidi’s object-dyeing technique is one of the defining aspects of its craftsmanship. Instead of dyeing leather before construction, the shoes are fully assembled first, then dipped and dyed after the stitching is done. This method allows the color to saturate every inch of the shoe, from the leather upper to the interior lining, resulting in a seamless, rich tone that evolves with time. The distressing of the leather, often achieved through tumbling or by hand, further enhances the worn-in feel that makes each pair of Guidi boots feel personal and lived in from the first wear.
This is craftsmanship rooted in slow fashion, where the product is about the process, not just the finished result. The use of Goodyear welting, Blake stitching, and hand-stacked leather soles only heightens the luxurious yet utilitarian quality of each pair. These boots are made to last—not just in terms of durability, but in their ability to tell a story as they age, becoming more beautiful and unique with every step taken.
In the world of Guidi, footwear has never been just footwear—it’s been a symbol. Prominent figures in music, art, and fashion have embraced the brand for its authenticity and its ability to resist the shiny, commercial world of contemporary luxury fashion. From streetwear icons to avant-garde fashionistas, Guidi’s pieces are worn by those who understand the raw beauty of well-crafted leather and the anti-fashion ethos that Guidi champions.
Kanye West, Rick Owens, and Hiroshi Fujiwara are just a few of the names who have been seen wearing Guidi’s iconic backzip boots, one of the brand’s most recognizable pieces. The boots, often crafted from thick horse leather or distressed kangaroo hide, have become a cult item—a badge of honor for those who prefer understated luxury over overt branding.
These viral items have found their way onto the feet of those at the intersection of subculture and high fashion, creating a following of individuals who value craftsmanship and longevity over fleeting trends. Guidi’s raw aesthetic has become a defining feature of alternative luxury, where beauty is found not in the flawless but in the flawed, the worn, and the lived-in.
Guidi isn’t a brand that chases trends—it sets its own course, rooted in the artisanal traditions of Tuscan leatherworking. Its creations are objects of desire for those who seek something real and enduring. In a world obsessed with the new, Guidi offers something different: shoes that tell a story of time, of craft, and of legacy.
Every pair of Guidi boots is a piece of history—a history written in leather, in dye, in stitches that mark the wearer’s journey. They are a subtle rebellion against showy logos and disposable trends—an invitation to slow down and embrace the enduring allure of craft. In the hands of those who understand, these boots aren’t just shoes; they are a connection to something greater—a lineage of art, skill, and raw, untouched beauty.
