Adrian Appiolaza’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection for Moschino marks a bold yet reflective moment for the brand, one that delicately intertwines Moschino's rich archive with Appiolaza’s own evolving vision. Building on the house’s long history of playful irreverence, Appiolaza steps away from the overt camp of his predecessor, Jeremy Scott, instead offering a subtler, layered approach. The collection’s opening—white garments draped in a way reminiscent of Franco Moschino’s early studio experiments—immediately draws a line back to the brand's origin, nodding to the founder’s creativity and subversive attitude toward traditional fashion forms.
Yet, it isn’t merely homage. Appiolaza injects new life into these archival references, collaborating with iconic figures like Terry Jones, co-founder of i-D magazine, to create prints that dance between nostalgia and freshness. The collection also riffs on everyday domesticity—a motif not unfamiliar in Moschino’s history—recasting it through the lens of childhood games and domestic rituals, which subtly mirrors Moschino’s long tradition of turning the mundane into high fashion art.
Appiolaza's work further succeeds in engaging both longtime fans of Moschino’s irreverent humor and a new audience seeking more nuanced takes. Where previous collections may have felt like caricature, this one masterfully balances wit with sophistication, channeling the brand’s tongue-in-cheek DNA while refining it for contemporary tastes. In this regard, the Spring/Summer 2025 show feels like a pivotal point, where past and present are seamlessly intertwined, opening new pathways for the brand’s future.
Words: Soukita Morgan
Photography: Ussi'n Yala
